This Collection describes an adventure that I experienced between Chile and Argentina, from the end of December 2016 to the beginning of January 2017. The route described follows the Carretera Austral and a small part of Route 40. It’s a formidable journey. This trip had a huge impact on me and helped develop my interest in travelling by bike. No two trips are the same, however, and I’m sure that ‘your Carretera’ will be a unique experience, even if you follow the route I suggest.

Most travellers I met on these extraordinary roads were headed in the direction of Ushuaïa, the city at the end of the world. It wasn't my choice. I didn’t want to bump into lots of international cyclists. Although meeting people from across the world is interesting, I had a different idea.

Thanks to my curiosity for prehistory, I’d heard of ‘la Cueva de las Manos’, which translates to ‘the cave of the hands’ in the province of Santa Cruz in Argentina. This unique archaeological site, dating back 11,000 years, is located south of the town of Perito Moreno, the capital of the department of Lago Buenos Aires in the heart of the Pampas. The cave houses rock paintings, which are especially well preserved and world famous for their depictions of negative hands. From Puerto Montt, the official starting point of the Carretera Austral, I had to travel more than 1,000 kilometres (621 mi) to reach the Pinturas river valley to find the cave.

The Carretera and Route 40 are as different as Chileans are from Argentines. The main difficulties of the Carretera are rain and steep climbs, which can be constant for several days. Route 40 has merciless wind and seemingly infinite distances on certain sections.

Augusto Pinochet launched the construction of this Carretera in the 1970s. His idea was to open up Chilean Patagonia to the rest of the country, but the project is still not completed to this day. On the Carretera Austral, you’ll still find numerous ripios (dirt and gravel roads) that are several hundred kilometres long. The villages are generally very far apart so remember to equip yourself and bring spare parts, as well as quality waterproof clothing, even in the middle of the southern summer. Don’t forget quality lubricant for your chain and bring several spare brake pads. The abrasive dust from the volcanoes, combined with rainwater, is a destructive cocktail. Finally, it’s essential to plan according to the ferry crossing times.

Come well prepared and you can enjoy grandiose landscapes and an awesome adventure. Glaciers, majestic mountains, waterfalls, fjords, lush plants and gigantic trees minimise the hazards inherent in such a trip. Another advantage is the presence of open-air thermal baths along the route. What an incredible joy to take a bath in hot, bubbling water even while the elements are unleashed around you!

In Argentina, don’t even think about getting on your bike if you have a headwind. I was fortunate to have a favourable wind the day when I went from Perito Moreno to the Cueva de Las Manos. You’ll see more wildlife than in Chile because the lack of vegetation in the pampas makes it more visible, so get your cameras ready! Rheas, vicuñas and charming little armadillos are numerous along the road.

To get to Puerto Montt, the starting point of this adventure, you can pedal or take a bus that accepts bicycles from the central station of Santiago or Temuco. The bus offers berths, but note that you’ll need to partially disassemble your bicycle before putting it in the hold.

Once you reach the end of this adventure, there’s no public transport service. Don't hesitate to ask the many visitors to the prehistoric site to take you back to Perito Moreno. From there, take a bus to your next destination.

After visiting this famous cave, I went to Esquel to continue my journey. For more details, check out this Collection:

komoot.com/collection/1669995

I wish you great adventures on these roads through these southern lands!