Höga Kustenleden

The Höga Kustenleden is a hiking trail through Höga Kusten between Hörnösand and Örnsköldsvik at the Gulf of Bothnia. It is 127km long and has 2500m ascension in total. The recommended time to hike the trail is 5 to 7 days. The terrain is hilly, it goes up and down all the way but never too long stretches in just one direction.Deciding to hike the Höga Kustenleden was super spontaneous. Just one week of preparation and when starting the train ticket back was not even booked. I hiked in the end of October and the beginning of November which meant it was already deep autumn. I calculated to have cold nights, expected frost and was not disappointed. Mixed with sun in the first half and total fog on the last day, it was just the perfect weather and temperature for me to hike in.
The first day was a bit slowly started. The last days were tiring so I did not want to restrict on sleep for the first night where I arrived by bus at 22.30. The grillstuga at the Höga Kusten hotellet is just fine for late arrivals. Something that appeared to become relevant throughout the hike is to problem of finding water. My waterfilter seemed not to work anymore and all places that were marked in maps and mentioned on the website about drinking water seemed only to exist in summer. It is frustrating to have water all around you but know that it could cost you several days from recovering from diarrhea was not worth it. Neither did I calculate the fuel for boiling water. In the end it worked somehow.
Quite surprised by the ArkNat shelter for the first night, I started the second day earlier because I had a slight premonition that it is going to be a tough schedule. The second day started wonderful, being at Nipstugan quite early. But I realised just 6km later that I had forgotten my spoon at Nipstugan. After eating the mushy banana and then laying a grey spoon on the grey stone just means you cannot see it. I was struggling: move on or go back? The spoon and me, we have had some adventures together so I decided to go back. And the 2:45h that it took me draw their traces until the bitter end.
Instead of pushing on through the darkness I choosed a shelter with an incredible view over the bay, watching sunset during dinner and just enjoying. I got company of two other guys, it was late so we did not talk that much but maybe there will be opportunity for it. Being outside at this time of the year in this longitude means living the sun light. There are 8.30h of sunlight. Add 45min for dusk and dawn and additional 15min each as a buffer where additional light is already needed to find your way in the forest. There is just no way of not getting up before sunrise to be able to make most of the day. After end of daylight saving time on sunday this meant getting up at 5 and go to bed at 20 (it is already dark for 4h at that time).
On day 3 the water problem got severe in the evening and was getting worse during day 4 morning. I planned to fill up water at Mäjasbodarna. But water was only provided during summer. I boiled water from the lake which just seemed to be fine but was not as planned. Next water stop should be Docksta. No way. Only during summer. I was good in time so I decided to climb Skuleberget and, if necessary, to go to the Naturum where I would quite certainly find water. Skuleberget was demanding but worth it. Totally calm, sunny, spectacular view. But now water. Or - did this guy took water from somewhere? The toilets had water! Finally! I was already dehydrated but now I filled up everything that was possible.
Looking on the distance remaining, it was disappointing. Almost like half the trail left. And only one and a half days.
I just keept on pushing knowing that tomorrow there should be fog and probably rain. Just try to reach the other side of Skuleskogen naturreserve. Filling water just before Skuleskogen. Find the way over stick and stone in Skuleskogen and then be up there, at Slättdalsberget during sunset. Wonderful! And then I took the time to shoot photos. It felt like I was the only one left. If the families made it safely to the entrance during light? I had my headlight but it was getting wet. I couldn't see the orange dots marking the way, not even in full power mode... Tärnattstugan was close by. I decided to stay, fired the oven and just enjoyed the evening. Alone, somewhere mid in nature and resting for the last day. It is going to be demanding, 44km, the longest I would ever do but possible.
Waking up, rain is prasseling the roof. Just stay in bed for half an hour longer. It feels dark. The fog does not allow any light come through. The rain stops, I am late on the feet. Just keep moving. Eating, walking or simultaneously. 10km, 20km. I am getting tired. There were long strikes of asphalt. The weather is fine to hike. Take photos here and there. The fog has something mystical. I like it. But I need to keep going. It is getting later, then dark but still 11km left. Follow the high traffic road or go through the dark forest in fog? My fear of dark forests has calmed for several years. I decided to take forest route and not to cut 3km. The first time since I have my headlight I need to recharge it because it actually is empty not because I am preparing for the next tour. The charging cable hangs in my face. Because of the fog I cannot see that much. This is frightening. I start talking to myself and this is a good way to keep myself walking. The "official" maps and the trail signs deviate. Neither is safe to follow. I have no idea where I am, I cannot see anything, my feet hurt, my legs hurt, I just want to arrive. I take to trail signs. It works quite well. I come out of the forest. Putting down the backpack for five minutes and sitting down do a miracle. Just move on.
About one hour before my train leaves do I arrive in Örnsköldsvik. I lost the official trail somewhere, just following the route on my GPS. The way goes through the train station. And just as a miracle, I meet the two guys from three days ago. They advise me to go and get something to eat before the store closes. I also want to reach the official end. I do but the supermarket has already closed. I have some spare food like nuts and cookies. No chance to properly fuel up after the longest hike in life. "We have questions." does one of the guys say. "Who are you?", "Where did you start this morning?", "Where did you stay?". It was welcoming. They said they had prepared the fire in one of the huts just waiting for me to come in. It had been wonderful. It wasn't the case. I forgot their names but they are kept in good memory. The Höga Kustenleden is finished, differently than planned but very much worth doing it.